The First Restaurant in Kyiv: History, Construction, and Cultural Heritage of the “Grand Hotel”

Foto:zalizyaka.livejournal

The first restaurant in Kyiv, opened in 1842, has left a significant mark on the city’s history. This restaurant, known as the “Grand Hotel,” was located on Khreshchatyk, which was already the central street of the city at that time. Its opening marked the beginning of Kyiv’s restaurant culture.

Construction and Architecture

The idea of creating the first restaurant belonged to the famous Kyiv entrepreneur and philanthropist Ivan Tereshchenko. He saw the need to create a place where the city’s elite could gather for business meetings, leisure, and cultural events. The building’s design was undertaken by renowned architect Alexander Beretti, who was also known for his work on several other significant buildings in Kyiv. His architectural solutions helped create a building that impressed with its luxury and grandeur. The facade was executed in the neoclassical style with elements of Empire, giving it an elegant and respectable appearance. The interior decoration matched the exterior’s splendor: the halls were adorned with stucco, exquisite paintings, and antique furniture. The interior created an atmosphere of coziness and nobility, attracting the most discerning guests.

Guests and Visitors

From the moment it opened, the “Grand Hotel” attracted the attention of Kyiv’s high society. Aristocrats, diplomats, prominent entrepreneurs, and well-known cultural figures could be found here. Among the frequent guests of the restaurant were notable personalities such as:

1.  Taras Shevchenko — the great Ukrainian poet and artist, who often visited the restaurant to meet with friends and colleagues from the creative field.
2.  Mikhail Bulgakov — the writer and playwright, who frequently came to the restaurant seeking inspiration and to communicate with other writers.
3.  Symon Petliura — one of the leaders of the Ukrainian People’s Republic, who also enjoyed visiting the “Grand Hotel.”
4.  Spanish Grand Duke Montpensier — a high-ranking guest whose visit emphasized the establishment’s status.
5.  Brazilian Emperor Dom Pedro II — this inquisitive monarch, traveling through European cities, visited Kyiv incognito in 1876 under the name Count d’Alcantara.

The restaurant became a meeting place for discussing not only business matters but also cultural initiatives. Literary evenings, musical concerts, and art exhibitions were organized here. Live music, often played in the restaurant’s halls, attracted music lovers and created an atmosphere of celebration and inspiration.

Menu and Cuisine

The cuisine of the “Grand Hotel” was of the highest standard and offered guests a variety of European and Ukrainian dishes. Popular dishes included such exquisite fare as:

•   Soups based on meat and fish broths.
•   Game and beef stews.
•   Pancakes with various fillings.
•   Dumplings with cherries and sour cream.

Special attention was paid to the quality of the ingredients and the chefs’ mastery, making each dish a culinary masterpiece. The restaurant offered French and Russian cuisine under the management of the former maître d’hôtel at the court of His Majesty Emperor Alexander II, Mr. Visconti. Wines were brought from the best foreign firms.

Impact and Legacy

The “Grand Hotel” became a model for subsequent restaurants and cafes in Kyiv, setting a high standard of service and quality. Its success inspired entrepreneurs to create new establishments, contributing to the development of the city’s gastronomic culture.

When electricity appeared in the city in 1878, the first demonstration sessions of electric lighting were held in the “Grand Hotel” restaurant hall. This highlighted the establishment’s status as an innovator and leader in providing high-class services.

The hotel had 120 rooms with electric lighting and telephones in all rooms. It also featured elevators, baths, and billiard rooms, making the “Grand Hotel” a first-class establishment. Heinrich Lancia, the hotel’s proprietor, described it as: “In Kyiv on Khreshchatyk, in the city center.”

Today, the historical building of the “Grand Hotel” no longer exists in its original form. Unfortunately, the building was destroyed during World War II. Modern buildings and commercial facilities now occupy its place, and the exact location of the first restaurant has changed due to Khreshchatyk’s reconstruction after the war. However, the memory of the “Grand Hotel” and its significance for Kyiv’s history has been preserved in the city’s cultural and historical memory. Modern establishments reflect the influence of the luxurious and elegant style characteristic of the first restaurant.

The history of Kyiv’s first restaurant is not only a story of a gastronomic breakthrough but also one of the city’s cultural development, its striving for new heights, and its quest for perfection in everything. The “Grand Hotel” remains a symbol of the beginning of Kyiv’s restaurant culture and its unique charm.

Sources:

1. Kyiv restaurants of the 19th century. Historical overview - an article on the website of the Kyiv Historical and Cultural Society, 2021.
2. Architecture of Kyiv: from ancient times to the present day - book by Oleksandr Ponomaryov, "Kyiv information" publishing house, 2015.
3. Ivan Tereshchenko and his contribution to the development of Kyiv - an article in the magazine "Kyiv entrepreneurs", issue 12, 2018.
4. Memories of Kyiv: Grand Hotel restaurant - blog of historian Andrii Shevchenko, 2020.
5. Architect Oleksandr Beretti and his works in Kyiv - article on the website of the Ukrainian Society of Architects, 2019.
6. The old hotel - article by Mykhailo Kalnytskyi.